Unlike Ancient Quarters of Hanoi or Hoi An, fog and wind at the very head of the country create a unique difference for Dong Van Ancient Quarter in Ha Giang province.
Dong Van Old Quarter was built at the beginning of the 20th century in Dong Quan district, Tuyen Quang province. It was then separated and joined with Bao Lac administrative unit which was run by a Tay hereditary chief as a separate fiefdom. At the very beginning, there were only some Tay, Hoa and Mong families living there. By the 1940s – 1950s, the Kinh, Dao and Nung people arrived and settled there.
Apart from the daily changing development of modern architecture, weather-beaten earth walls, staircases, wood railings and houses roofed with yin-yang tiles seem to be challenging time.
Situated in the hamlets of Quyet Tien and Dong Tam, Dong Van Ancient Quarter has some 40 ancient houses which are about 100 years old and are side by side on the foot of the stone mountains. Big, solid, U-shaped stone columns which are carved in a nice manner form a large market area within the residential area.
The picture of the street is drawn up with many colours and changes during the day. In the morning, such a unique picture is cleverly mixed between the shiny yellow sunshine and the grey colour of ancient houses. The dormant dew-coated space seems to be woken up by the light, exciting sound and colourful costumes of ethnic minorities including the Mong, Hoa, Ray, Tay and Nung. When the afternoon comes, the inherent quietness falls all over the ancient quarter within the stone plateau. At night, in the dim light from oil lamps, from somewhere comes the familiar sound of lip musical instrument played by Mong boys calling for their lovers. At weekend nights, the atmosphere at market stores gets more bustling with folk songs and dances of boys and girls from mountainous villages gathering here for entertainment.
On 14th, 15th and 16th March (lunar calendar) which are “ancient quarter nights”, all the houses here hang up red lanterns, display traditional hand-made products, hold artistic performances, sell and taste “thang co” (a local traditional food) and sip corn wine while chatting with each other. These activities regularly take place in a both traditional and modern manner, creating a unique feature for Dong Van Ancient Quarter.
Dong Van market is not only a business place for ethnic minority people living in the area, but also a place for festivals. Mong girls, Pu Peo and Lo Lo people dressed in traditional costumes are excited about coming here for fun, making friends, shopping and exchanging goods. Thanks to the Vietnamese-Chinese blended architecture style, Dong Van market which was built in 1925-1928, is like a beautiful and impressive drawing in the plateau.
With unique features and the beauty of the traditional diversified culture as well as the architecture here, Dong Van Ancient Quarter has really created a unique and impressive destination within the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark.
Thanh Nga