Vietnam's Lunar New Year (Tet) in the Eyes of Foreigners

When I first arrived in September 1989 there were very few foreigners, with the exemption of occasional Russians. It is hard to describe the feeling of being a total stranger in a country that had been essentially closed to Americans for the previous 15 years before then. It was both exhilarating, yet at the same time somewhat overwhelming. People stared at me everywhere I went. They were usually shocked to learn I was American. But from the moment I arrived, I knew this was where I wanted to be.

My early Tets in 1989 and 1990 were somewhat solitary occasions, but I enjoyed them. Tet was a very closed family affair, with invitations to foreigners to visit the home of Vietnamese not very typical then. Regardless, they were most enjoyable occasions, and the excitement of Tet and the crowded streets was contagious. The joy and anticipation of family reunions was very palpable.

For me, purchasing hoa dao from the flower vendor near the Hang Dau water towers on Phan Dinh Phung Street was especially fun; laughing and bargaining, a cultural event for both parties! Eating Banh Chung, Canh Mang & Bong were special treats and most Vietnamese were surprised to find a “Tay” who so relished it. The only thing I did not enjoy back then was the cachaphony of fire works, which seemed to go on forever, day and night. I must be honest, I welcomed the law banning them in 1995! In the New Year, as in Vietnam, America now organizes public fire works displays, and large exhibitions are held in all major cities, usually including live television. These are popular gatherings of family and friends.

The biggest change I have noticed in Vietnam’s Tet is that with increasing prosperity, the habit of gift giving has risen substantially. But overall, I find the basic traditions remain very much the same. Family traditions are valued in Vietnam, and this is a wonderful aspect of Vietnamese society. I hope it never changes

I still find it perplexing about which days are the most ‘auspicious’ to bring a family good luck or bad luck, so usually I do not visit friends on the first day because I know this is taken very seriously. To be blamed for bringing bad luck to a family would be a heavy burden!

As Vietnam has prospered in recent years it is wonderful to see the ability of more families to travel and get together, and especially the many reunions of Viet kieu families returning to their homeland. This makes Tet very special, and a harbinger of great things to come for the nation.

My routine varied little year to year. I used the occasions to travel throughout the country, learn more and become acquainted with the people. Because of my busy workload most of the year, Tet was truly a “break” from my regular routine.